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Seminole or Creek (Southeast, United States)

Shoulder Bag, 1820-1830

wool, cotton, cotton thread and glass beads
30 1/2 x 17 5/8"

Museum purchase through partial funds from Beaux Arts, 88.0053

 

Beautifully embroidered bead shoulder bags are among the finest artistic accomplishments of Seminole and Creek women. During the 19th century, when Native American people were experiencing extreme cultural upheaval and tribal wars against relocation, these bags were worn with pride by Indian leaders as part of their best dress for negotiations and other special occasions. Their distinctive style consists of a square pouch with a triangular flap opening and a broad shoulder strap. The shoulder bags were first executed by finger weaving, then, in the early 19th century, the women learned new sewing techniques using commercial wool cloth. The cloth was cut to shape, sewn, and decorated with embroidered glass-bead designs. The women either used ancient designs deriving from the Mississippian period or they created significant new curvilinear and geometric designs. The designs on this shoulder bag have spiritual significance. Scrolls representing breath or puffs of smoke are said to be symbolic of the Creator, Breathmaker. The small cross in the center of the flap represents the four directions of the logs of the sacred fire.

 

Navajo (Southwest, United States)

Germantown Eye-Dazzler Blanket, 1875-1890

wool yarn, cotton string and commercial dyes
64 1/4 x 39 3/4"

Gift of Alfred I. Barton, 57.151.000

 

After years of warfare, the Navajo people were defeated by the United States in 1864 and force-marched into exile at Bosque Redondo in eastern New Mexico, where they remained until 1868. This period of exile was also a transitional period in Navajo weaving because of the availability of new materials and exposure to the serrate design styles of Spanish colonial weavers in the Rio Grande Valley. Blankets and rugs from the late transitional period were woven in a wide variety of brilliant-colored yarns from commercial mills in Germantown, Pennsylvania. Because Germantown yarns were more uniform in diameter than handspun yarns, their use made possible a more evenly battened weft and thus a style of finely woven textiles with complex arrangements of small serrated zigzag patterns. The blankets made from these yarns became known as “eye-dazzlers” because of the visually stunning combinations of bright colors and explosive patterns. This innovation is considered uniquely Navajo, an example of experimentation with newly introduced materials. Dismissed by rug traders as too garish for commercial sales, eye-dazzler blankets were widely accepted and worn by the Navajos. This blanket, woven of shaded yarns, which are rarely seen in Germantown blankets, reflects the aesthetic taste and creative talents of the weaver.

 

Anasazi (Southwest, United States)

Pronghorn Antelope Effigy Vessel
, 1000-1200

pottery, slip paint and mineral paint
8 3/8 x 5 1/2 x 9 1/4"

Museum purchase through 1987 Acquisition Funds, 87.0007

 
In the Southwest during a period from approximately 1000 to 1200, there was considerable cultural intermingling among the Anasazi, the Hohokam, and the Mogollon and associated Tularosa and Mimbres peoples, and this is clearly evident in their art. This effigy vessel is decorated with black-on-white geometric painting in the style of the Tularosa and the Mimbres. It is formed in the shape of a pronghorn antelope, a popular subject selected for ceramic effigy figures and pottery decoration. The pair of horns in this example have been carefully modeled as have other attributes of the animal, such as the eyes, the tail, and the simplified legs. Even though the animal is recognizable as a pronghorn, it has avian attributes, notably a beak.
 

Tlingit (Northwest Coast, Canada/United States), Teikweidi people (Bear Clan)

Chief's Frontlet Headdress, late 19th century

wood, mother-of-pearl, ermine tails, sea lion bristles, feathers, cotton and wool cloth, tanned leather and paint
35 1/2 x 10 x 7 1/2"

Gift of Alfred I. Barton, 56.143.058

 
Of all Northwest Coast artistic creations, masks have the greatest sculptural variety. They were worn at such social ceremonies as feasts and potlatches, at winter initiation ceremonies, and during magic and curing rituals performed by shamans. Often the exact significance of a mask has been lost because such information was only known by those who owned and used them. In the north, among the Tlingit, Tsimshian and Haida, masks were most often used at feasts and potlatches. The head of a family would wear the specific mask that represented the crest animal of his clan while he acted as host, delivered speechless and led and observed the dances that were held to reenact the myths of the family. Closely allied in use and significance are the headdress frontlets. These are rectangular, oval, or round convex carvings that were attached to elaborate headdresses. They were worn of high ranking people to emphasize their status and position, and carved to represent legends, totemic crests or episodes in a particular clan's history. This mask is called Kijook or Golden Eagle and was used by the Teikweidi people, who are also known as the Bear Clan.



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